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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.